Single-stitch vs. double-stitch: dating a tee by its seams

One of the more reliable quick checks in vintage tee collecting is the hem construction — specifically, whether the sleeve and bottom hems use a single line of stitching or two.

What changed and roughly when

Through the 1980s and into the early-to-mid 1990s, single-stitch hems were the industry standard across most mainstream tee manufacturers. As garment production shifted toward safety-stitch (double-needle) machines for cost and durability reasons, double-stitch hems became the dominant standard by the later 1990s and have remained standard since.

That makes single-stitch construction a reasonably useful rough indicator that a tee predates the mid-to-late 90s — but it's a clue, not a certainty.

Why it's not a hard rule

Some manufacturers kept single-stitch machines in use longer than others, and small or boutique print runs have used single-stitch construction well past the 90s for stylistic reasons. Treat stitch count as one data point alongside the tag style, fabric weight, and print method — not as a standalone dating tool.

What to check alongside it

• Tag style and any RN (registered number) or union label present
• Print method — older screen prints often have a slightly raised, cracked texture with age; modern vinyl transfers look and feel different
• Fabric weight — older cotton tees often run heavier than modern mass-market tees